Wrote this article a while ago. I don’t think it ever got published so I’m putting it up here because it’s a little glimpse into the fashion world I’m slowly trying to understand, hehe. No images, just in case.
What’s in a name? For Gosha Rubchinskiy, it’s an entire eponymous brand, built upon a rich foundation of youth culture, social scrutiny, political tension and religious heritage. What Rubchinskiy has observed and continues to observe, he constructs into a tangible narrative of design, outlined by an artistic vision fixated on his Russian roots.
For his Spring/Summer 2017 collection, Rubchinskiy pushes cultural boundaries even more, highlighting that streetwear is no longer under unstated American ownership, but has instead become a crucible of international interpretation. These latest designs ditch Russia and move into Italy. To mark his Pitti Uomo debut, the It-designer staged his SS17 show at an abandoned ’30s tobacco factory in Florence, opening up the spectacle with a slight twist. Maintaining the sprezzatura tenor of nonchalance but elevating looks with touches of a slightly more sophisticated slant, the assemblage was kick-started by an oversized black suit and a jarringly mismatching silver chain necklace, along with a blazer draped over a grey Fila tee, tailored pinstripes and double-breasted velvet jackets.
But moving back to what Rubchinskiy is most familiar with, namely, the streets, the SS17 collection saw a whole roster of collaborations with sportswear labels, such as Kappa. Rubchinskiy’s team-up with Superga produced cotton upper sneakers, available in black and white, in low- and hi-top versions, fronted by embroidery and a leather logo, all atop an iconic vulcanized midsole. He’s also helped put out a couple of Fila goods, including the Fila T-1 Mid with leather uppers and a wraparound suede overlay, socks, a simple logo tee and a crew sweat. Find his partnership with Sergio Tacchini as well, taking the form of tracksuits, featuring a bright red iteration. The Gosha Rubchinskiy x Retrosuperfuture sunglasses look pretty swanky too.
In addition, an alliance with American giant Levi’s sees the Cold War left way behind. Rubchinskiy has revamped two of its classics: the Type III Trucker jacket and the 505 jeans, now both veneered by Cyrillic script details against a corduroy base, offered in black, white, bright red and fluorescent yellow. As for his mainline, expect to find ’90s-centric apparel, such as striped sweaters and ying yang denim garments.
At the forefront of Rubchinskiy’s mindscape truly is a conflux of interests and experiences shaping his identity and creative style, however subliminally: teenagehood, the underground scene, skate culture, the glasnost-driven spillover of Western pop influence into a previously parochial, sterile ex-Soviet state – think colour overflowing into a greyscale painting, or new discoveries enlivening the myopic; this ethos of excitement and incredulity was booming in Moscow back in the ’90s, and the reverie that is Rubchinskiy’s works clearly continues to be enraptured by a similar, fervent spirit today.
Find the collection at Dover Street Market’s online store.