Tearing Down Walls

Wrote this article a while ago. I don’t think it ever got published so I’m putting it up here because it’s a little glimpse into the fashion world I’m slowly trying to understand, hehe. No images, just in case.

What’s in a name? For Gosha Rubchinskiy, it’s an entire eponymous brand, built upon a rich foundation of youth culture, social scrutiny, political tension and religious heritage. What Rubchinskiy has observed and continues to observe, he constructs into a tangible narrative of design, outlined by an artistic vision fixated on his Russian roots.

For his Spring/Summer 2017 collection, Rubchinskiy pushes cultural boundaries even more, highlighting that streetwear is no longer under unstated American ownership, but has instead become a crucible of international interpretation. These latest designs ditch Russia and move into Italy. To mark his Pitti Uomo debut, the It-designer staged his SS17 show at an abandoned ’30s tobacco factory in Florence, opening up the spectacle with a slight twist. Maintaining the sprezzatura tenor of nonchalance but elevating looks with touches of a slightly more sophisticated slant, the assemblage was kick-started by an oversized black suit and a jarringly mismatching silver chain necklace, along with a blazer draped over a grey Fila tee, tailored pinstripes and double-breasted velvet jackets.

But moving back to what Rubchinskiy is most familiar with, namely, the streets, the SS17 collection saw a whole roster of collaborations with sportswear labels, such as Kappa. Rubchinskiy’s team-up with Superga produced cotton upper sneakers, available in black and white, in low- and hi-top versions, fronted by embroidery and a leather logo, all atop an iconic vulcanized midsole. He’s also helped put out a couple of Fila goods, including the Fila T-1 Mid with leather uppers and a wraparound suede overlay, socks, a simple logo tee and a crew sweat. Find his partnership with Sergio Tacchini as well, taking the form of tracksuits, featuring a bright red iteration. The Gosha Rubchinskiy x Retrosuperfuture sunglasses look pretty swanky too.

In addition, an alliance with American giant Levi’s sees the Cold War left way behind. Rubchinskiy has revamped two of its classics: the Type III Trucker jacket and the 505 jeans, now both veneered by Cyrillic script details against a corduroy base, offered in black, white, bright red and fluorescent yellow. As for his mainline, expect to find ’90s-centric apparel, such as striped sweaters and ying yang denim garments.

At the forefront of Rubchinskiy’s mindscape truly is a conflux of interests and experiences shaping his identity and creative style, however subliminally: teenagehood, the underground scene, skate culture, the glasnost-driven spillover of Western pop influence into a previously parochial, sterile ex-Soviet state – think colour overflowing into a greyscale painting, or new discoveries enlivening the myopic; this ethos of excitement and incredulity was booming in Moscow back in the ’90s, and the reverie that is Rubchinskiy’s works clearly continues to be enraptured by a similar, fervent spirit today.

Find the collection at Dover Street Market’s online store.

5 thoughts on “Tearing Down Walls

      1. yup it may not be your niche but at least you tried, and the final product is wonderful! just curious, how long did you take to research all that material?


      2. I can’t remember tbh, because it was a few months ago!! A few hours for the whole thing in total, research, phrasing and all. And cutting down words lol cus I had a word limit.

        Liked by 1 person

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